10 Perennials You Should Prune In January and February For Healthier Growth

I remember being younger and watching my mom go out into the garden in January and February, pruning plants while it was freezing cold. At the time, it made no sense to me. Everything looked dormant and lifeless. Now I do the exact same thing…

Winter pruning isn’t about forcing growth early. It’s about lightly cleaning up the right perennials and setting them up for a healthier start once spring arrives. Over the years, these have become my non-negotiables.

10 Perennials To Prune In January and February for Healthier Growth

Not every perennial should be touched in winter, but the ones below can handle light pruning in January and February when done correctly. This is the approach that’s worked best for me over the years.

Quick reminder: This guide is mainly for USDA Zones 7-10, where winters are mild and the ground isn’t frozen solid. In colder zones, it’s best to wait until late winter or early spring, and stay inside enjoying a hot cup of tea while the garden rests.

1: Hellebores (Lenten Roses)

Hellebores are one of the first perennials I always deal with in winter. I usually go out in late January, right before the flower buds really start pushing up.

All I do is cut away the old, tired leaves at the base of the plant. They’re usually spotted, floppy, or just in the way at that point. Removing them lets the flowers show properly and helps keep disease from hanging around.

Quick tip: I don’t touch the flower stems themselves. If a leaf is still green and healthy, I leave it. This is more of a cleanup than a hard prune, but it makes a huge difference once the blooms open.

2: Ornamental Grasses (Deciduous Types)

This is a winter job I usually do sometime between late January and February. By then, deciduous ornamental grasses look tired and messy, and new growth is usually not far off.

I tie the dried foliage together first, then cut everything back to a few inches above the ground. It keeps things tidy and makes cleanup much easier. Once spring arrives, fresh green shoots come up quickly and the plant looks brand new again.

Quick reminder: If you prefer, you can leave grasses standing a bit longer, as they provide shelter for overwintering insects and food for birds.

3: Russian Sage (Perovskia)

Russian sage can be a drama queen, so I’m careful with it in winter. I usually wait until late January or February, once I’m sure the plant is fully dormant. At that point, it’s easy to tell which stems are truly dead and which ones are worth keeping.

I don’t cut it back hard this early. Instead, I thin out dead or brittle stems and clean up anything that snapped or collapsed over winter. This keeps the plant from looking messy and makes the full spring prune much easier later on.

Quick tip: If a stem bends instead of snapping, leave it for now. Russian sage handles winter cleanup well, but heavy pruning is best saved for late winter or early spring when new growth starts to show.

4: Butterfly Bush (Buddleja)

Butterfly bush is another one I keep on a short leash in winter. I usually deal with it sometime between late January and February, once it’s clearly dormant and I can see what winter has actually damaged.

For now, I just remove dead wood and weak or broken stems. That’s it for this time of year! I don’t do the big cutback yet, just a cleanup to get rid of anything that won’t come back. It keeps the plant tidy and makes the heavier pruning later much easier.

Quick tip: Whenever I’m unsure whether a branch is alive, I just scratch the bark lightly with my fingernail. Green underneath means it’s still alive and worth keeping until spring.

5: Lavender

I usually leave it alone until late January or February, and even then, I keep things very light. At this point, I’m basically just cleaning it up.

I remove any stems that are clearly dead or damaged and trim back anything that looks messy, making sure I stay well above the woody base. Cutting into old wood in winter is the fastest way to lose a lavender plant.

This applies to English lavender and hardy hybrids. Spanish and French lavenders are best left alone until spring.

Quick tip: If you’re not sure where to cut, stop higher than you think you should. You can always prune more later in spring, but you can’t undo a winter cut. I wish someone had told me this earlier, because the first time I pruned lavender in winter, I cut too low into the woody part. I didn’t kill it, but it struggled for a long time after!

6: Hardy Salvias (Herbaceous Types)

With hardy, herbaceous salvias, winter is more about timing than cutting. I usually wait until late January or February, when I can see that the plant is fully dormant and starting to wake up at the base.

At that point, I cut back the old, dead stems to make room for new growth. If there’s still green or flexible growth on top, I leave it alone and come back later.

Quick reminder: Make sure you’re dealing with a herbaceous salvia. Woody salvias don’t like winter pruning and are much better left until spring.

7: Catmint (Nepeta)

Catmint is probably one of the most forgiving in this list, but I still don’t rush it in winter. I usually give it attention in late January or February, once it’s clearly dormant and any winter damage is easy to spot.

I focus on cleaning it up rather than cutting it back hard. That means removing collapsed, broken, or obviously dead stems and leaving the rest alone. Again, the goal is just to tidy the plant and reduce mess, not to shape it yet.

8: Bearded Iris

Bearded iris is one perennial I almost always clean up in winter. I usually do this sometime between January and February, once the plant has fully settled into dormancy.

I cut back old, damaged, or diseased leaves to about a few inches tall and clear away any debris around the rhizomes. This helps improve airflow and keeps pests and rot from becoming a problem as temperatures start to warm.

Quick tip: Don’t bury the rhizomes with mulch after pruning. I did that the first time because I thought they’d freeze… nope. Bearded irises actually prefer their rhizomes exposed, and covering them can easily lead to rot.

9: Yarrow (Achillea)

Yarrow is one of those plants that doesn’t really need winter pruning, but in milder winters I’ll sometimes tidy it up in late January or February if it’s looking rough.

I don’t cut it back hard. I just remove spent flower stems, damaged growth, or anything that’s flopped over and won’t recover. Most of the time, this is more about keeping the bed neat than doing anything for the plant itself.

Quick reminder: If you’re unsure, just leave it standing until spring. Leaving it through winter can also offer shelter for beneficial insects and food for birds, so it’s really up to you.

10: Sedum (Upright Varieties like ‘Autumn Joy’)

I usually check sedums in late January or February and decide based on how they look after winter weather.

If the stems are broken, flattened, or clearly done for, I’ll trim those off. If they’re still standing and holding shape, I often leave them alone until later. Just like yarrow, cleanup here is optional and mostly about tidiness, as these also provide food for birds and shelter for beneficial insects.

Perennials to Leave Alone in January and February

Not all perennials appreciate winter attention. Some are better left exactly as they are until late winter or early spring, especially when cold snaps are still possible. Leaving these alone helps protect the plant and avoids damaging early buds or new growth.

Pruning in Winter: Less Is More

Winter pruning doesn’t have to be complicated. It’s really about knowing which plants benefit from a little cleanup and which ones are better left alone until spring.

If you garden in a mild climate and keep things light, a bit of winter pruning can make spring feel much easier when everything starts waking up again. And when in doubt, leaving a few plants standing a little longer is often the safest choice, for your garden and for the wildlife that depends on it.