Somehow, there’s always a gardening job you keep putting off. And before you know it, November is here. Planting lilies, anyone? You may still have time, depending on where you live. Is the ground still workable? Does the soil drain well? Those are the questions worth asking before you start digging.

Yes, you can still plant lily bulbs in November in many parts of the country! Early fall gives bulbs more time to establish roots, but there’s no need to rule out November. Just check a few things before you start digging:

  • Your USDA hardiness zone: Many Asiatic lilies are suited to Zones 4-8, while some Oriental varieties can handle winters as cold as Zone 3. Always check the specific cultivar.
  • The ground: As long as the soil is still workable and hasn’t frozen solid, you can go ahead and plant your bulbs.
  • Drainage: Lily bulbs don’t appreciate sitting in soggy soil, especially through winter. Make sure your planting spot drains well.

If those conditions look good, go ahead and plant! Your bulbs will be in place and ready for next summer’s beautiful flowers.

Choosing lilies is the fun part! Just make sure we’re talking about true lilies (Lilium), especially Asiatic and Oriental varieties! Daylilies and calla lilies may have “lily” in their names, but they’re different plants with different growing needs.

And if you’re planning to plant more than lilies this November, we also put together a guide to 9 bulbs you can plant now for beautiful spring flowers.

Cat and lily

If your cats share your home with you, please be extremely careful with true lilies. Every part of the plant is toxic to them: the pollen, leaves, flowers, and even vase water. Even a tiny amount can cause life-threatening kidney failure.

The safest choice is to avoid bringing lilies into homes with cats or planting them anywhere cats might have access. If you suspect your cat has been exposed, don’t wait for symptoms. Contact a veterinarian immediately!

And remember those daylilies we mentioned? They’re just as dangerous to cats, despite not being true lilies!

Lily bulbs

A good deal is always tempting, but don’t let a low price make the decision for you. Before planting, there are a few things worth checking:

  • Bulb quality: Firm and plump is what you’re after. No soft spots. No mold. And no signs of rot. Unlike tulips, true lily bulbs don’t have a papery protective coating, so plant them promptly before they dry out.
  • Sunlight: Where could your lilies get plenty of sunlight without baking all afternoon? Aim for around six hours of sun daily, with a little afternoon shade in warmer areas.
  • Drainage: Lily bulbs like moist soil, but there’s a big difference between moist and waterlogged. Good drainage is especially important during winter.

Here’s a little test that could save your bulbs from a soggy winter: Dig a 12-inch-deep hole, fill it with water, and let it drain. Refill it, then measure how far the water level drops in an hour. If the water level drops less than an inch, consider a raised bed to keep your lily bulbs from sitting in soggy soil.

If a raised bed sounds like the better option, we also wrote a guide on how to choose the best spot and orientation for raised garden beds.

Planting lily bulb

You’ve picked out your bulbs and found them a good spot. Now it’s time to get them planted properly. So, how much soil should go on top?

  • Smaller bulbs: generally need 3-4 inches of soil above them.
  • Larger bulbs: usually need about 4-6 inches.

Of course, lilies wouldn’t make things quite that simple! Some grow roots from the bottom of the bulb only, while others develop roots along the stem as well. These stem-rooting varieties usually need to sit deeper in the soil.

Time to get your hands dirty! But don’t worry, planting lilies is pretty straightforward.

  • Position and space the bulbs: Place each bulb pointy side up, gently spreading any existing roots underneath. For a more natural display, plant in groups of three or five, spacing the bulbs around 8-12 inches apart.
  • Cover and water: Fill the hole with soil, gently firm it to remove large air pockets, and water thoroughly. No need to pack the soil too tightly!

Quick tip: Planting depth can vary depending on the lily variety, so always check the instructions for the variety you’ve bought. It saves a lot of guesswork.

Covering bulbs with soil fall

Got a garden in the Upper Midwest, northern New England, or one of the colder parts of the Northeast? Your newly planted lilies could use a bit of help getting through winter. Repeated freezing and thawing can push bulbs upward and damage their developing roots.

Wait for the ground to start freezing before spreading a 4-6-inch layer of loose mulch over the bulbs. Shredded leaves, straw, or pine needles will do nicely.

When spring rolls around, carefully pull back the mulch as the soil thaws and new shoots emerge. Those young lily shoots are surprisingly easy to break!

Quick tip: Mark the planting spot before winter sets in. It’s surprisingly easy to forget where you put everything. It’s got nothing to do with age…

And if you’re getting the rest of your garden ready for winter, we also wrote a guide on which plants benefit from winter mulch and which ones are better left alone.

Feel free to deadhead once the flowers fade, but leave the green stems and leaves alone. They’re still collecting sunlight and storing energy in the bulbs for next summer’s flowers.

Wait until the foliage turns yellow and dies back before cutting down the stems. It’s not the prettiest stage of a lily’s life, perhaps, but it’s an important one!

Cutting back too early is an easy mistake to make. We also covered 10 common mistakes that can keep perennials from coming back stronger each year, including when to leave the foliage alone.

And that’s your lilies all set for another growing season. Now you just have to wait for summer.

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