March has arrived and spring is just around the corner. For many of us, this month is an opportunity to prepare our plants for spring blooming.
In this article, we’ll go over March hydrangea care tips and discuss some essential tasks you may want to knock out before spring blooming begins.
I follow this procedure every year around early to mid March and the majestic hydrangea blooms in my garden every spring speak for it. Let’s dive right into it, shall we?
March Hydrangea Care: Essential Tasks
1 – Check For Winter Damage, Breakage, Or Frost Damage
The first thing you should pay attention to in your hydrangeas after winter is the level of frost damage they’ve taken. Hydrangeas are known to be relatively hardy and can survive light frosts without trouble. However, that doesn’t necessarily mean they won’t be damaged or injured after the cold season.
Look for breakage in stems and crumbling, weak foliage. Winter cold can be quite cruel and your hydrangeas are like soldiers coming out of war.
2 – Prune (If Needed!)
If your garden mostly consists of Smooth and Panicle hydrangeas, it may be a good idea to prune them while March still remains and spring hasn’t begun in full power.
These hydrangea varieties bloom on new wood, so trimming down old plants and allowing them to rejuvenate ensures healthier, more sustainable blooming.
If you have Bigleaf or Oakleaf hydrangeas, DO NOT prune them before spring as these varieties prefer blooming on old wood. Removing old wood would result in poor blooming or no blooms at all.
3 – Clean Up Mulch & Debris
Another task you may want to knock out before spring is cleaning up mulch and debris from around your hydrangeas. This won’t take a lot of time and will drastically reduce any chances of pests and diseases potentially harming your plants in the long run.
If you want, you can add fresh compost to the soil for enrichment and give it a nutrient boost that may help with hydrangea blooming in spring.
4 – Apply Slow-Release Fertilizer
If you’re opting for a store-bought fertilizer, go for a balanced blend ideally with an NPK of 10-10-10. This will help promote strong root growth before bud development.
5 – Water Wisely!
Hydrangeas are not flowers you want to underwater. They thrive in consistent moisture and shouldn’t be kept without water for more than a few weeks in a row. In case of dry weather, deep watering once a week is best and should get you the blooming results you need.
6 – Prepare For Late Frosts
To protect your hydrangeas from late frosts and root freezing, mulch around the base of your plants to protect roots from temperature swings. Constantly fluctuating temperatures can damage your hydrangeas beyond your imagination. Yeah…I’m talking from experience…
If you believe unexpected cold snaps will occur, it may be a good idea to keep burlap or a thick frost cloth handy just in case.
Conclusion
Before the emergence of spring, it’s generally a good idea to prep your plants for blooming. In the case of hydrangeas, you may need to get your hands dirty and knock out a few important tasks that will ultimately decide the health and vigor of your hydrangea blooms.
Be diligent and follow through with your efforts to keep your plants nourished and healthy while spring lasts.
How do I propagate hydrangeas in the spring?
Hi Carol! Great question! 😊 Spring is a great time to propagate hydrangeas using softwood cuttings. Here’s how:
✂️ Take a cutting – Snip a 4-6 inch stem with at least two leaf nodes from new growth.
🌿 Remove lower leaves and dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional but helpful).
🌱 Plant in moist soil or water – If using soil, keep it damp and cover with a plastic bag for humidity.
☀️ Place in indirect light – Roots should form in 2-4 weeks.
Once rooted, transplant to a pot or garden bed! Happy growing! 🌸✨
Find a stem that has the knot around it. You know where it bloomed from. Cut under it 2inches. Remove big leaves leaving just enough to see it after planting. Make whole with fertilizer add water and plant. I planted mine under an annual and it love being there. It’s the only one that survived.
Hi! That’s a great tip! 🌿 Finding the node where it bloomed and cutting just below it can definitely help with successful propagation. Love that yours thrived under an annual,such a smart way to give it some extra protection! Thanks for sharing your experience! 😊✨
I love your garden hints! I’m a long time gardener but I always find new info in your posts. Thank you🥰
Hi Chris! That means so much, thank you! 😊🌿
Even experienced gardeners are always learning, and I’m so happy you find my posts helpful. Wishing you a beautiful gardening season! 💐✨
I have an oak leaf hydrangea can I cut it back aggressively now for spring summer growth
Hi Lisa! Be careful with heavy pruning!
Oakleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood, so if you cut them back aggressively now, you’ll lose this year’s flowers. Instead, wait until right after they bloom in summer, then lightly shape them if needed. Remove dead or damaged branches now, but save major pruning for later. Hope that helps! 😊✨
Deer munch on my hydrangeas before they can bloom. Do you have any tips to help keep them away?
Hi! Deer love hydrangeas, but there are ways to keep them away! 🌿
Use deer repellents – Sprays like Liquid Fence or homemade garlic/pepper sprays work well.
Plant deer-resistant companions – Lavender, rosemary, or daffodils can help deter them.
Add physical barriers – Netting, chicken wire, or even motion-activated sprinklers can keep them at bay.
Reapplying repellents after rain and switching methods occasionally can help! Hope this keeps your hydrangeas safe! 😊✨
I am not much of a gardener but have a fairly large hydrangea near my house! I don’t know how to tell what kind it is so I know when to prune it, can you help?
Hi Sue! Of course! 😊 The best way to tell what kind of hydrangea you have is by looking at its bloom shape and when it flowers:
🌸 Bigleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) – Round, mophead or lacecap flowers, blooms on old wood (prune after blooming in summer).
🌿 Panicle Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata) – Cone-shaped flowers, blooms on new wood (prune in late winter or early spring).
💙 Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia) – Cone flowers with large, oak-shaped leaves, blooms on old wood (prune after blooming).
🌼 Smooth Hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) – Round flowers, blooms on new wood (prune in late winter or early spring).
Check out this guide to help you identify yours: https://www.tinygardenhabit.com/how-to-prune-hydrangeas/ 😊✨
You can tell what type of hydrangeas you have by how long the stem (petioles)is that attaches the leaf to the stem. Smooth head hydrangeas have a patiel longer than 1”, and can be pruned anytime after the nighttime temps are consistently under 32 degrees thru early spring. Mop head hydrangeas have patiel no longer than 1”, bloom on old wood and should only be pruned after late summer right after it’s bloomed.
Hi Laurie! That’s a great tip! 😊 The petiole length is a useful way to identify hydrangea types. Smooth hydrangeas (petioles longer than 1”) can be pruned in late fall through early spring, while mophead hydrangeas (petioles shorter than 1”) bloom on old wood and should only be pruned right after flowering in late summer. Thanks for sharing this helpful info! 🌿✨
When is the best time to transplant? My hydrangea gets leaves on it but no blooms so I’m thinking I need to change the sun direction.
Hi Judi! 😊 The best time to transplant a hydrangea is in early spring or fall, when the weather is cooler and the plant is not actively blooming.
If it’s getting leaves but no blooms, it might not be getting enough morning sun. They need at least 4–6 hours of light to flower well. Just be sure to dig up as much of the root ball as possible and water it well after transplanting. 🌿🌸✨
They hate scents…. throw out scented epsum salts or anything like that… or Milorganite from your garden center.
Hi Linda! Great tip! 😊 Scents like scented Epsom salts or Milorganite can definitely help keep critters like deer and rabbits away from your garden. Thanks for sharing. Every little trick helps! 🌿✨
Good to know I’ll keep Trying to grow some Things don’t Turn out right trying my best
Hi Maggie! That’s the spirit! 🌿 Gardening is all about learning and experimenting. Some things will thrive, and others might not, but that’s part of the journey. Keep going, and you’ll see progress! 😊✨ Happy growing!
I am not sure what type of hydrangea bush I have, how can I tell so I know when to prune them. Thank you
Hi Tina! Great question! 😊 If you’re not sure what type of hydrangea you have, we have a full guide that explains how to prune hydrangeas, with pictures to help you identify yours.
Check out this article and see if you can find a match: https://www.tinygardenhabit.com/how-to-prune-hydrangeas/. Hope it helps! 💙✨
So I have big leaf hydrangeas. You said don’t prune before spring. Do I prune at all? When they quit blooming last fall I cut them back.
Hi Barbara! Bigleaf hydrangeas bloom on old wood, so if you cut them back last fall, you may have removed this year’s flower buds. 😬
Going forward, only prune right after they finish blooming in summer to shape the plant or remove dead wood. Avoid heavy pruning in fall or early spring, and they should bounce back beautifully! 😊🌿✨
How much of the 10-10-10 fertilizer should you put on each plant
Hi Alice! 😊 For 10-10-10 fertilizer, use about 1/4 to 1/2 cup per hydrangea, depending on the size of the plant.
🌿 Sprinkle it evenly around the base, staying a few inches away from the stem.
💧 Water it in well after applying to help it soak into the soil.
Always check the label on your specific fertilizer for exact amounts, it may vary slightly. Happy growing! 🌸✨
I have 2 plants on the west side of my house (Kansas) I have had them for 4 years . I have only had 1 bloom on both of them the 2 nd year and none since then – I mulch,
Fertilise and water . What else should I be doing ??
Hi Linda! It sounds like you’re giving them great care! 😊 Since you’ve only had one bloom in four years, a few things might be at play:
🌿 Type of hydrangea – If they’re bigleaf hydrangeas, they bloom on old wood, so pruning at the wrong time (like fall or early spring) could be removing the buds.
☀️ Sunlight – The west side can be hot and intense. If they’re getting too much afternoon sun, it can stress the plant and reduce blooming.
🌱 Fertilizer balance – Too much nitrogen = lots of leaves, but few blooms. Try switching to a phosphorus-rich fertilizer (like one for blooming plants) to encourage flowers.
Let me know the type you have if you’re unsure. I’d be happy to help figure it out! 😊🌸
What can I do about brown spots
Hi Lori! 😊 Brown spots on hydrangea leaves are often caused by fungal issues like leaf spot or too much moisture on the foliage. Here’s what you can do:
🍂 Remove affected leaves to stop it from spreading;
💧 Water at the base, not over the leaves;
🌬️ Improve airflow by thinning out crowded branches;
🦠 Use a fungicide like neem oil or a copper-based spray if it’s persistent.
Keep an eye on them. Early action helps a lot! 😊🌿✨
How do I know, for trimming purposes, what kind of hydrangea I have?
Hi Carol! Great question! 😊 You can tell by the blooms and leaves.
🌸 Bigleaf hydrangeas have round or lacecap flowers and shiny leaves, they bloom on old wood, so prune after flowering.
🌿 Panicle types have cone-shaped blooms and bloom on new wood, so prune in late winter/early spring.
🍃 Smooth Hydrangea has round, white or green blooms and blooms on new wood.
🍁 Oakleaf has oak-like leaves and also blooms on old wood.
Let me know what yours looks like and I’ll help you ID it! 🌿✨
Should all mulch from fall be removed? Compost laid and then new mulch?
Or just pull back the old much and put compost down?
Hi Kaye! 😊 No need to remove all the old mulch. Just pull it back, add your compost around the base, and then re-cover with the existing mulch or top it off with a fresh layer if needed. This helps keep moisture in and builds healthier soil over time! 🌿✨
I have Summer Crush Hydrangeas and every year in the spring they start budding at the base but nothing on the stems. The stems are very dry and no green inside when cut so I trim them back to the base. Is this normal for that type of variety?
Hi Tom! Yes, that can be normal for Summer Crush hydrangeas, especially in colder climates. 😊 They’re supposed to bloom on both old and new wood, but in early spring, if the stems are dry with no green inside, it usually means they didn’t survive the winter.
Cutting them back to the base is the right move, it allows the plant to focus on new growth from the bottom. Try mulching heavily in late fall or covering them during harsh winters to protect the old wood and encourage more blooms from higher up next season. You’re doing great! 🌸🌿